Is surfing fun or is it cool?

Ok I just have to ask do you surf to be cool, or to have fun?

The thought that prompted this question came to me on Sunday when I was out surfing with Tim and Elena on a pretty small day. There were waves and the sun was shining and we had the day off so what better thing to do than surf! right?!

Well I was out soaking up the sun enjoying the COLD water when I overheard this Father harping on his son for not catching a wave that went by, the son i might add was around age 7. I had seen him catch a few waves and he was definitely a skilled little grom, but as his dad rode off on the next wave I looked at his face and saw that there was no childhood innocence in his eyes. His brows were furrowed with concern and he had the look on his face of a boy who just disappointed his dad.

I immediately became frustrated and thought to myself, maybe I should stand up for that kid I mean his dad really needs to lay off surfing is supposed to be fun and he's freakin 7 let him be a kid and have fun, don't make it about work and about doing everything right and perfect. Parents and the pressure they put on their kids to perform is the one thing that really gets my blood boiling. A kid should be a kid they should enjoy childhood it's the only time in life where its acceptable to be irresponsible and spend your day having FUN. Let the worries of adulthood come once their childhood is gone, you only get one childhood don't spoil it for your kids. Ok so off my soap box with that!!!

It made me think about the Dad also, I started to think shoot, I wonder if that guy forgot when he first was learning to surf, I wonder if he forgot about how much fun it was when you catch a good wave or what the surf stoke is when you had an epic session. I then started to wonder if surfing was ever fun for that man, or was it always about being the best doing everything right catching the most waves etc.

And that's when I realized some people don't even get into surfing because it's fun they get into it because they think its cool (they're the ones that get pissed when they don't catch enough waves and have a bad attitude in the water), and to those surfers I have to say you are really missing out surfing is supposed to be fun that's the whole point. Catching a wave is FUN!!!!!!!!! not cool it's like getting the thrill of your favorite roller-coaster over and over for FREE. So all you surfers out there that are too cool for school lighten up and laugh and most importantly have FUN!!!!!!